Saturday, September 24, 2005

marine line to visit my surrogate family

I dont have any family in Mumbai. My friend from the states was kind enough to offer her family to me for the time that I'm staying here. I took her up on her offer today and headed over to spend the day at her house. I took Sherry along with me because I dont speak hindi and my friend's mom doesnt speak english. Thank goodness that it doesnt take a lot to convince Sherry to go to a strangers house to spend the day translating everything from both sides! If she hadnt come along I would have spent the entire day doing the indian head bop and smiling like a crazy person. She was what they called my "interpreter."

We left for her mom's house on Marine Line with plenty of time on our hands but ended up being late anyway. We stopped at a sweets shop to pick up a 1 kg of indian sweets (thats 2.2 lbs!). Then, just for fun (and to say that I've done it at least once), Sherry and I crossed the railroad tracks. Totally illegal but everyone does it here and we decided that it was a rite of passage in India so we had to join in. It's not really a big deal since there were no trains coming, it was early in the day, and we had a nice little group of people to follow. While we were crossing the tracks, I was telling Sherry how I had never been on a train at rush hour and that I was really happy about it. I spoke too soon because our train was packed. I had to squeeze my way through to the other side of the door, with my purse flying in who knows what direction, all while trying to hold onto the box of sweets and maintain my balance. Fun stuff, no? We made it through the crowd (and boy do these people give dirty looks while you're attempting to find a space to stand in) and arrived at Marine Line. After walking down a few streets, we eventually found our way . I dont think I would have gotten there without my friends directions, I had e-mailed her to ask how to get to her house because I was pretty sure that I was going to get lost. Good thing too, because her directions were amazing. My friends parents and grandparents are so sweet! They showered us with food (pav bhaji and ginger chai!), gifts (her grandfather makes the most amazing jewelry by hand), and just a general feeling of comfort and love that had been missing for the past few weeks. I felt like i was in Bangladesh again. We headed over to Zaveri Market to go shopping. Two hours later, tired and exhausted, I left with a sari and a ghagra. Shopping here is so frustrating because you enter a store, they keep bringing out outfit after outfit and if you dont like anything you end up leaving a huge pile of clothing on the floor and feeling awful about it. It doesnt seem to bother most people here, which is understandable, because thats the only way to shop, there's really no choice.

After dinner, Sherry and I felt like we should do something since it was only 8 pm. Our other roomies were in Bandra West eating at a Thai place that we had been to just a few days ago. We decided to head over to the large shopping center called Phoenix Mills instead; plus we were stuffed from all of the homemade pav bhaji that we had eaten. By the time we got there, most of the stores were closing so we decided to go back tomorrow. Quick stop at Naturals for some chocobite ice cream and we were back on the train on our way home.

Side note - Today was the first day that it didnt rain since I've been in Mumbai. I never thought the day would come. = )

Friday, September 23, 2005

work, dinner, and a movie.

work : productive which makes me happy.
dinner : homemade aloo chaat with the roomies because we are obsessed with it. i have a renewed passion for potatoes.
movie: salaam namaste in an IMAX theatre with an ice cream cone is what i call a perfect night.

The movie experience in the ADLABS IMAX theatre in Wadala was amazing. I never knew that going to the movies could make me so happy. I almost forgot the joys of luxury. I'm going to be a very easily amused girl when I get back to the states. It's the little things that matter. That lesson as been fully learned and understood. Anyway, back to the movie trip, I didnt think that we were going to make it there at first because we went through this puddle-y non existent road which was barely visible in the darkness. Scary stuff. The theatre had an arcade, a bookstore, baskin robbins, a candy shop, and seating like Loews at home. Right before the movie started, everyone got up and i was totally confused. I looked at the screen and it said "Please stand for the national anthem."

Jana-mana-gana written by the famous Bengali, Rabindranath Tagore. English translation: Thou art the ruler of the minds of all people, dispenser of India's destiny. Thy name rouses the hearts of Punjab, Sind, Gujarat and Maratha, of the Dravida and Orissa and Bengal; It echoes in the hills of the Vindyas and Himalayas, mingles in the music of Jamuna and Ganges and is chanted by the waves of the Indian Sea. They pray for thy blessings and sing thy praise. The saving of all people waits in thy hand, thou dispenser of India's destiny. Victory, victory, victory to thee.

Salaam Namaste was a great movie. It might have been a semi copy of Nine Months but I didnt mind. Watching the movie, which was filmed in Melbourne, reminded me of my winter trip there. Australia is so beautiful! And after living in rainy, dirty Mumbai for the past month, the western world is looking oh-so-perfect and super clean. It was nice to see St. Kilda Beach on screen, the Starbucks near Flinders Station, and other randomness in Melbourne. On a side note, I miss Starbucks. They must have known that I was moving into the neighborhood when they built the new Starbucks in FW. It's right outside of the entrance to Avalon, could life be any sweeter?
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let the countdown begin: seven days

Thursday, September 22, 2005

remember those childhood family gatherings?

Work. Reflection session. Topic: Rediscovering Dharavi (asia's largest slum). Then we went off to Bandra West for dinner at Potpourri. I had a chicken sandwich. I was tad nervous to test my stomach with meat in India but I decided to go for it. The desserts at this place were amazing, we indulged in three completely different types of desserts - a brownie, an apple crumb tart, and carrot spice cake. yummy. Four of us piled into the back of an autorickshaw to go shopping at Linking Road. Normally they only let three people in an autorickshaw but for an extra 5 rupees the driver agreed to let all 4 of us ride together. Another memorable experience.

Do you remember when you were little and your parents decided that it was finally time to go home from that boring family gathering that you didnt want to go to in the first place? (but then after you got there you found some other children your age who were just as miserable being there as you were so ended up having a grand ole time together!) So finally comes the end of the night, or so you think, and your parents are yelling at you and screaming that its time to leave. You're thinking "Yeah ok, i'll just go in 30 minutes because we're going to stand at the door for an hour anyway." So you arrive at the door, get yelled at in front of everyone, put on your shoes and assume that you're heading out. You've already said bye at least ten times to the new friends that you've made. But wait, now its time to go back into the living room for some chai! Finally about 1-2 hours later, its really time to go home, this of course is only after thirty minutes of standing with the front door wide open. If this reminds you of your childhood then you'll feel perfectly at home when shopping at the markets in bombay. It's such a tease. You ask how much something costs. The price is ridiculously high, you counter with an offer thats just as ridiculous (on the other extreme). The shopkeeper lowers his price a little. You claim that you're leaving. You take a step out of the shop with your ears perked up for his call back. Another step. There it is. "Ok, ok, come back. I give you good price." You turn around. Now he's saying some other high price that you he knows you wont pay. Out you go. "WAIT." Back in. Back out. I'm leaving, I swear. But, wait, arent you going to call me back? Sometimes you get called back, sometimes you dont (thats rare and you know that you were bargaining with extremely unrealistic expectations). Welcome to haggling for everything that you buy on the streets in India.

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

another day at work

Up until today, I hadnt been to the office in quite a while due to the field trips, sick days, and the weekend in between. I finally figured out the route to walk to work from my apartment. Yesterday when we went to the Don Bosco Mela we walked towards where I work and I realized that it would probably take me about 30 minutes to walk there if I wanted to. You guessed it, I took a taxi instead of walking today. Not that that I'm lazy or that I mind walking, it's just too much to take in at that time of day. I'd rather save my patience for other unpredictable events throughout the course of the day.

Right outside of the office, there's an STD/ISD/PCO phone booth. Basically it's a one room operation where you pick up a phone to make your call to wherever and then pay the attendant on your way out. When we first got here everyone would tell us to look for the "STD" signs if we wanted to make a phone call. And we would look at them with a "what did you tell me look for?" expression on our faces. I have yet to figure out what STD stands for...standard phone something? If you ever find out, let me know, I'm still curious. I made a quick call to my relatives in Bangladesh to let them know that I'm doing well and that they shouldnt worry about me. My grandmother picked up and I made the mistake of coughing while I was on the phone. The was the end of the pleasant convo and start of "oh no, are you ok? you're there all by yourself. I'm so worried about you. God knows where you are, in the middle of the jungle somewhere! Did you know that your grandfather was out there in the 1940s...." Wait, I'm in the middle of the jungle? Who told her that! Mumbai might be crazy but its definitely no jungle, far from it. I have definitely not seen any monkeys as of yet. Cows, yes. Monkeys, no. Actually I dont even think I've seen any birds, where are all of the birds in India? Cows, stray cats and dogs, goats, cockroaches, lizards, and ants. Hmm.

Ate at McDonalds in India for the first time. McAloo Tikki (aka a potato patty sandwich) and french fries. There's a Ronald McDonald statue on a bench at the McDonalds that Sherry and I went to, she promised me that we will all take a picture with him before my departure in nine short days. I'm sure we'll cause quite the scene when taking that picture. Ah the joys of being a tourist (if i can call myself that).

The nighttime downpour led us to cancel our evening plans. Another night at home. I started reading A Fine Balance. Excellent so far, from page 1.

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

field trip

Miriam, Jo, and I headed off to an monthly event held by a local organization: the Don Bosco Mela. Basically, local boys who live on the streets, work as bus boys, or some that even live in the shelter spend two days (hosted by the Don Bosco org.) in a shelter where they get free food, a place to sleep, a haircut, access to a doctor, play games, and dance like bollywood film stars. We walked over there with AVSAR's program director in the pouring rain and as soon as we turned the corner into the building we were greeted with "Hello Didi!" (didi means older sister in hindi). Many of them came up to us one by one and introduced themselves and shook our hands. They were all curious to know where we came from...

The most impressive part of the fair were the group of boys dancing like little Shah Rukh Khan's and Hritik Roshan's. They can easily put any of my friends to shame in a second with their perfect imitations of bollywood dance moves (sorry girls). The coordinators had the room set up so that they was a stage with a dj and a dance floor in front. In the corners of the room, some boys were painting and others were playing carrom. In the back, the boys were getting haircuts and doctors were doing physicals. Some kids were just passed out in random places around the room. I have no idea how they were sleeping in the middle of so much chaos. We met a volunteer from Germany there, she's in India for six months as part of an internship through her college. She lives at the shelter and goes around to the different Don Bosco shelters each day to teach english. I dont know if I could do what she's doing. I know that everyday I look forward to returning to the AVSAR home base to relax and simply feel at home. It's nothing fancy, but it's more than enough after a long day's work in Mumbai.

http://www.shelterdonbosco.org/

Monday, September 19, 2005

is it monday already?

Worked from home today. Boring day! Watched the end of Kabhi Khushe Kabhi Gham on tv (without subtitles). No reflection session today.

Sunday, September 18, 2005

another day in south bombay

Decided to come out of hibernation today. Jo and Miriam are working on their med school apps so I was left to venture out on my own if I wanted to do anything. After spending the last few days stuck in the apartment together, it was hard for me to think that I could go out by myself, which was really surprisingly to me.

I spent the day in South Mumbai shopping at all of the overpriced (for locals) but affordable for tourists, westernized shops. Went to The Bombay Store (which is shown in Dil to Paagal Hai!), Beneton, Fab India, Globus, and then walked back to the train station - Victoria Terminus (or VT). I wish I could post a picture of this gorgeous structure...It's a a mixture of Indian traditional and Victorian Gothic Revival architecture. The building took over 10 years to build starting in 1878. Since it was built during British colonialization, it was named in the honor of Queen Victoria.

I ran in front of a bus today. Let me justify that statement, or at least let me try so that I don't sound like I'm crazy. People here have no sense of fear, they walk in front of cars, auto rickshaws, bike riders, trains(!), as if they are the only ones on the street. So, for the past 3 weeks I've been watching people walk in between cars and do all kinds of crazy stuff. Today, I found myself doing the same. No fear.